Friday, December 27, 2013

Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Organic Skin Care? What is the Real Hype?

Products without preservatives can easily be contaminated and thus prove harmful to the skin. 
“Some bacteria can cause ulcerated corneas and blindness,” says Diana Howard, Ph.D., vice president of global education and research and development for Dermalogica and The International Dermal Institute. “Other bacteria can cause an infection in the skin if they find their way into the body via an open cut or acne lesion.”

Interested in reading the article ... check this Link out ...

What is the Number one Skin care line Globally?

DERMALOGICA ... IS the number one Skin Care line Globally!

It is a Professional line, which means it has professional line and a retail line to support the services that you receive in the spa.

Estheticians Preferred!


Monday, December 23, 2013

Is a Man's Skin Really Different?

Is a Man's Skin Really Different?
by Dr. Diana Howard

The skin on a man versus that on a woman is significantly different. The ability to grow a beard is just one obvious distinction among many others that are not so evident. From a structural point of view, some of the differences include skin thickness, collagen density, loss of collagen as we age, texture and hydration. These differences in the skin may in fact create differences in the treatment room. Let’s look at each of these aspects in more detail.

Skin Thickness
We know that the thickness of the skin varies with the location, age and sex of the individual. Additionally, androgens (i.e. testosterone), which cause an increase in skin thickness, accounts for why a man’s skin is about 25 percent thicker than that of a woman’s. A man’s skin also thins gradually with age, whereas the thickness of a woman’s skin remains constant until about the age of fifty. After menopause, her skin will thin significantly, which will continue as she ages.

Collagen Density
Regardless of age, men have a higher collagen density than women; this is the ratio of collagen to the thickness of the skin. Researchers believe that the higher collagen density accounts for why women appear to age faster than men of the same age. When considering intrinsic (genetically-programmed) aging of the skin, it has been said that women are about 15 years older than men of the same age. Of course, the role of daylight exposure in skin aging, combined with the fact that men do not use sunscreen as often as women, may account for why we do not readily notice. Extrinsic aging from UV radiation can add years to a man’s skin and negate the benefit of slower intrinsic aging.

Loss of Collagen
The physical signs of aging in adults, such as wrinkles and laxity to the tissue, are closely related to the collagen content of the skin. Both men and women lose about one percent of their collagen per year after their 30th birthday. For women, however, this escalates significantly in the first five years after menopause then slows down to a loss of two percent per year.

From a superficial perspective, the texture of a man’s skin is very different than a woman’s. The texture (on a man) is rougher, and the Stratum Corneum is thicker. There is also a difference in the composition of sebum and its production. After puberty, sebum production is greater in males than in females, which is attributed to androgen secretions and accounts for why men have longer lasting acne. The cells in a man’s sebaceous glands have more positive receptors for androgens, which explains why they produce more sebum. Interestingly, redness, proliferation of the sebaceous glands and swelling of the skin on the nose, (a condition known as rhinophyma that is found in extreme cases of rosacea) is only seen in males. It is unknown if this condition is controlled by androgens in a similar capacity as sebum production.

Puberty also stimulates the appearance of facial hair in men and gives rise to sweat secretions. Males have more Lactic Acid in their sweat, which accounts for a lower pH (.05 lower) when compared to female sweat. Men also sweat more than twice as much as women and are more prone to sweating, which is stimulated by an increase in body temperature. However, male skin appears to be better hydrated than women’s, which is fortunate, as men are less likely to apply a hydrating moisturizer to their body or face. Perhaps the excess sweating and production of Lactic Acid, a known natural humectant for the skin, is responsible for the level of tissue hydration.

Treating a Man’s Skin
The health of a man’s skin is, of course, just as important as that of a woman. But while treatment for a man sometimes differs from a woman, remember that the same amount of care must be taken regardless of the sex of the client. Even if the man appears to have tough, resilient skin, he may still have internal issues or surround himself in environments that sensitize him. In every instance, use the consultation card to familiarize yourself with the client, and never assume that a man needs any less gentle care than a woman.

shared from the site

Saturday, December 21, 2013

To Paraben or Not to Paraben

Since I have been asked this QUESTION... I thought I would share this article by Dr. Diana Howard, She is with Dermalogica and explains it this way...

“To Paraben or Not to Paraben”
by Dr. Diana Howard

For years, parabens have been considered the mildest and most commonly used of all preservatives available to the cosmetic formulator. They are found not only in cosmetics, but in food and medicines as well. In the past five years, numerous claims have circulated, leading to extremely negative reactions to the use of Parabens in cosmetics. But are these claims true? When evaluating studies, one has to question the concentration of parabens that were tested and the way they were used – topically, by injection or orally. Most of the studies are of the latter two, which are not indicative of topical exposure, nor are they indicative of the concentrations generally found in a cosmetic product.
When used in cosmetics, parabens exist in concentrations of less than one percent. Furthermore, the Final Report on the Safety Assessment of parabens indicates that, “the parabens are non- toxic, non mutagenic, non carcinogenic, practically non irritating and non sensitizing in the human population with normal skin.” The overall conclusion is that parabens are safe to use in cosmetic products at the concentrations generally used. When compared to most other preservatives, parabens have an excellent safety record.
The bad press on Parabens stems from the publication of a report entitled Concentration of Parabens in Human Breast Tumors, by P. D. Darbre in the Journal of Applied Toxicology 24:5-13 (2004). In summary, the authors claim that parabens from deodorants mimic estrogen, which causes breast cancer. However, peer reviews indicate that the study does NOT find a causal link between underarm products containing parabens and breast cancer; furthermore, scientists state that only 20 individuals were in the study and no control group was analyzed.
What’s more, scientists were quick to point out that extensive independent research has previously shown that esterase III, a skin enzyme found in keratinocytes, completely hydrolyses topically applied parabens to harmless substances that cannot pose any risk of cancer (Biol. Chem 377 (1):647, 1996). Even the researchers involved with the original Darbre work admitted that they could not prove where the parabens came from in their study – they could have been from food or medicines and not cosmetics.
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) issued a statement defending the safety of parabens and maintains that the Darbre study is “very preliminary and based on a small sample size with inconsistent results. A wealth of data supports the safety of parabens.” Dr. Chris Fowler of the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Perfumery Association (CTPA) stated that, “Parabens are officially approved for use under the Cosmetics Directive (76/768/EEC), the European legislation that regulates all cosmetics and toiletries. We can reassure the public that all cosmetic and toiletry products containing parabens may continue to be used safely.”
One source states that, “To date, numerous studies have recently provided new data on
parabens suggesting no adverse hormonal effect on the body” (Cosmetics (Nov. 18 2009). And the author of the study that triggered the concern over parabens even said “larger studies are needed to give more representative values for body burdens in different tissues and across the human population.” Additional studies are underway, which should better assess the impact of parabens on human health and find whether paraben accumulation from currently permitted levels in cosmetics, foods and pharmaceuticals remains acceptable.

Thursday, December 19, 2013

Achieve Optimal Skin Health

“Achieve Optimal Skin Health
by Dr. Claudia Aguirre
Skin health is not merely the absence of disease, it’s a lifestyle. Whether it’s getting enough sleep, exercising or maintaining a healthy skin regimen, it’s important to make healthy living a part of your life. Having a healthy skin regimen will ensure your cleanest, brightest and smoothest skin ever.

Soaps are alkaline and can change the skin’s natural acidic pH, resulting in irritation and dehydration. To prevent the irritancy of alkaline soaps, alternative cleansing agents called syndets (from synthetic detergent) were developed, proving to be the best for cleansing the delicate facial skin. There are also some plant extracts, like Quillaja Saponaria that naturally foam and thoroughly remove impurities and excess oils. Look for formulations that are pH-balanced and gentle enough to remove eye make-up. For the first step in healthy, refreshed skin, start with a soap-free product formulated to gently cleanse without disturbing the skin’s natural moisture balance.

Exfoliation is a process of helping your skin shed its dulling outermost layer. There are so many products and procedures out there, it may be daunting to think about the choices, and even more daunting for your skin to withstand. An alternative to the peels and scrubs is a milder version of an exfoliant that microfoliates dulling debris, leaving the skin noticeably smoother and brighter. Natural exfoliating agents like pineapple and rice enzymes are great when coupled with an alpha hydroxy acid like salicylic acid that accelerates cell renewal without the unwanted irritation often experienced after harsh exfoliation. Rice was used for many centuries by the Japanese to smooth and brighten skin. Only recently has the science caught up with this tradition to reveal that rice bran is a rich source of phytic acid and gamma oryzanol, which promote cell sloughing while helping to control pigmentation. This multifunctional ingredient provides enhanced antioxidant protection, inhibits melanin production, all while exfoliating dead cells. For a smooth, healthy and even complexion, use a mild exfoliant once daily.

Wash, scrub, layer on makeup, sleep. No wonder people are reporting more and more sensitivity. What we do throughout our day may result in the loss of the vital lipids of the epidermal barrier. Without proper shielding and replenishing, this barrier loses functionality, resulting in dehydration, wrinkles, and hyper-reactivity. Choose an appropriate moisturizer that actively combats surface dehydration while repairing damaged cells. For an oilier skin, try a lightweight moisturizer that provides effective oil-free hydration while improving skin texture. Opt for one that does not dry up or leave a greasy after-feel. For drier skin, use a richer formulation with antioxidant power that quenches dehydrated skin without adding excess oils to the skin. It’s important to choose a non- comedogenic formulation since the texture is richer in this case. The multivitamin and antioxidants in a richer formulation may be more suitable for nighttime, but can also be used daily with the added protection of a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

For a daily regimen that results in optimal skin health, remember to cleanse, brighten and moisturize. Balancing a healthy lifestyle with this regimen will visibly improve your skin’s quality and tone.”

---- This was a great article from by by Dr. Claudia Aguirre

Tuesday, December 17, 2013

the Dermalogica Skin Treatment

At Dermalogica, our professional skin therapists are trained at the International Dermal Institute. They are the most highly trained professionals in the industry. Think of a professional skin therapist as a specialist for your skin. We are dedicated to getting real results.

A lot of clients talk about facials and at Dermalogica we talk about skin treatments and the difference is clear. A facial is something that is indulgent or pampering. A skin treatment is specific to that client's skin, designed specifically for them by an expert skin therapist and the results are unequaled.

We start with our unique Face Mapping where we analyze the skin in depth and design a treatment that's different every single time because your skin is different every time you come in. You should receive a Dermalogica skin treatment about every 4-6 weeks or as I often like to say, once every epidermis which is your outer layer of skin.

The results your going to see with a Dermalogica skin treatment are unlike anything else in the industry because we exfoliate the skin, we double cleanse the skin, we do extractions, tailor-made customized massage and masque technique. With the products that are unequaled, you're going to see your skin glowing, more luminous, hydrated, quite honestly it's going to be in its optimum condition, the best skin you've ever had.

the above is from

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

Get the Skinny on Skin Disorders

Perfect skin is, for most people, a distant dream. According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), 85 percent of Americans will experience acne at some point in their lives, 40 to 50 million people have it at any given time, and Americans spend over $2 billion per year treating and preventing it.

This is a Great Article Check it out ...